Braided Transmission Lines and Temperature Gauge Installation
The stock Typhoon hard transmission lines:
The stock lines are a pain to work with when installing cold air intakes, transmission coolers, or anything else in that area of the engine bay.  Plus they are very easy to kink when installing your motor or transmission, which all syty's seem to have done at least a few times in their life.

Braided Transmission Line, Fittings and Temperature Guage:
When you're making your own kit for something like this, you end up having to buy a bunch of fittings. I got everything I needed from Summit Racing. Here is what is needed:
Part #ItemQuantity
ATM-2286Manifold, Transmission Temperature Gauge, Aluminum, Blue, 1/2 in. -14 NPT, 3/8 in. Tubing Kit1
ATM-2640Gauge, Z-Series, Transmission Temperature, 100-250 Degrees, 2 1/16 in., Analog, Electrical, Each1
EAR-800106ERLFitting, Hose End, Swivel Seal, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each6
EAR-981606ERLFitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 1/4 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each2
EAR-981668ERLFitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 1/2 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each2
EAR-982306ERLFitting, 45 Degree, -6 AN Male to 1/4 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each2
SUM-230620Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 20 ft. Length, Each1


*Note: I am bypassing the transmission cooler built into the radiator. For those that want to still use this, you will need:
EAR-800106ERLFitting, Hose End, Swivel Seal, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each2
EAR-949065ERLFitting, Coupler, 90 Degree, Male -6 AN to Male 1/2 in. x 20 Inverted Flare, Aluminum, Blue, Each2
*Also Note: I am using the plain Z-Series Autometer gauges. Any gauge you choose might cost more/less.

Making and Installing the braided transmission lines:
Step 1. Remove the stock hard transmission lines
I already had my passenger fender, fenderwell, turbo, passenger side exhaust manifold, battery, heater box/fan, air conditioning, and upper intercooler, removed. This made life a lot simpler I'm sure.

Use a 1/2" line wrench to disconnect the 2 transmission lines from the radiator. It's pretty tough to get a line wrench on the fittings at the transmission, so i used a 13mm open ended wrench to hit it at an angle. One you get these started, you should be able to unthread them by hand.

Once they're completely disconnected, the real fun begins. Fishing the lines out is quite a chore. I jacked up the truck as high as my jackstands would go. This allowed me to spins the lines to be able to get the bends in the lines over the front axle. It was a major pain, but both lines were pulled out by sending them towards the back of the truck.
 
Step 2. Install Transmission Cooler Fittings
These fittings install fairly easily. Put some teflon tape on the fittings and thread them into the transmission cooler. For the cooler (I'm using the B&M 28,000 race cooler), you just need a 7/8" socket to tighten the fitting in place.
 
Step 3. Install Transmission Fittings
I removed the transmission dipstick tube for this. It just pulls right out of the transmission. These 45 degree fittings that go into the transmission are a little tougher to tighten. Again use some teflon tape, and then thread them in by hand as much as you can. Getting a wrench or socket on them is tricky. The 2 fittings I got happened to be slightly different in size. One a 14mm wrench fit on, the other a 15mm. The were also slightly different colors of anodizing, so obviously were manufactured at different times.

The lower fitting i was able to tighten completely just using an open ended wrench. The top one however is more difficult to get to. I was able to tighten it almost completely using an open ended wrench, and then used a deep socket overtop of the fitting to tighten it the rest of the way.

Take note of the angle of the top fitting once installed. If you leave it pointing downward too much, you will not be able to attached the braided line to it because the bell housing will get in the way.
 
Step 4. Make all of the braided lines
If you've never made a braided line before, it's quite simple. Wrap electrical tape tightly around the braided line where you need to cut it. This will help keep the braids from fraying out while cutting and make it much easier to assemble the fitting on the line. Cut through the electrical tape using a chop saw, high speed air cutoff tool, or buy the special bolt-cutter looking snip tool made for cutting braided line. These will work best and keep the cut as clean as possible. If you use a chop saw or cutoff tool, use compressed air to clear out the lines after you make your cuts.

Once you have cut through the line, massage the shape of the cut end with some pliers to get it back to a round as possible. Unscrew the red portion of one of your hose fittings (EAR-800106ERL) from the blue portion. Slide the red portion onto the end of the braided line. If you happen to get some fraying trim the fraying metal with some snips - but not TOO closely or promote even more fraying.  If you create an oblong cut - get as much of the line into the red cap as possible, and then gently squeeze braided line with some pliers while pushing the red cap on the rest of the way. Once its on the line completely, I used a 3/4" socket to make it easier to twist/push the rec cap completely onto the braided line.

Now that the red cap is completely on the braided line, thread the blue portion into the braided line/red cap. This requires an 11/16" deep socket, or line wrench. I also put a 3/4" line wrench on the red cap to help with the tightening.  The best tools to use when touching the anodized metal are anodized aluminum wrenches - if you feel like spending top $ for wrenches you won't use much, and really dislike any markings on your fittings.
 
Step 5. Install the braided lines


More to come! Last Updated 05/16/2006